Kusum Kangaru 6367m is one of the rocky and frozen peaks. This forms the border between the Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north. Its name creating in Sherpa language means the Three Snow-White Gods. This climb is suggested only for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience.
This peak can be climbed from south East Ridge route or north Ridge route.
Kusum Kangru dominating the southern end of Charpati Himal that separates the valley of the Dudh Koshi from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka. This peak is a complex, triple–summited mountain having at least five major ridges and faces. The north face of the main summit is the most spectacular one. The name Kusum Kanguru comes from Tibetan meaning “Home of Three Gods” and it actually has 3 different summits.
This peak is one of the most difficult trekking peaks to climb and was first ascended in the autumn of 1979 by a Japanese team. South-East Ridge The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base cam at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.
North Ridge The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grass and scree and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu transfer to hotel/welcome Dinner (D)
Day 02: Rest day at official work and briefing for Kusum Kangru peak climbing (B,L,D)
Day 03: From Kathmandu to Lukla by flight (B,L,D)
Day 04: Lukla to Chutanga (B.L.D)
Day 05: Chutanga to Yake Kharka (B.L.D)
Day 06: Rest day at Yake Kharka (B.L.D)
Day 07: Yake Kharka to Tashing Ongma (4,943m) (B.L.D)
Day 08: Tashing Ongma to Orshela (4,304m) (B.L.D)
Day 09: Orshela to Gondishung (B.L.D)
Day 10: Gondishung to Lungsamba (4,063m) (B.L.D)
Day 11: Lungsamba to Camp I (B.L.D)
Day 12: Camp I to Camp II (B.L.D)
Day 13: Camp II to Camp III (B.L.D)
Day 14: Camp III to Kusum Kangru Base camp (B.L.D)
Day 15: Rest day at acclimatization for Kusum Kangru climbing (B.L.D)
Day 16: Kusum Kangru Base camp to Kusum Kangru High camp (B.L.D)
Day 17: High Camp to Kusum Kangru climbing (6,369m) (B.L.D)
Day 18: After summit Kusum Kangru back to Base camp (B.L.D)
Day 19: Base camp to Camp III (B.L.D)
Day 20: Camp III to Gondishung (B.L.D)
Day 21: Gondishung to Tashing Ongma (B.L.D)
Day 22: Tashing Ongma to Chutanga (B.L.D)
Day 23: Chutanga to Lukla(B.L.D)
Day 24: From Lukla to Kathmandu by flight (B,L,D)
Day 25: Rest day at Kathmandu (B)
Day 26: Final departure to your country (B)
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